Gabelshus, Oslo

Sleepover: Gabelshus, Oslo
Deanna MacDonald
Globe and Mail, June, 2006

Contrary to popular belief, Oslo is not boring. It is just Norwegian. Blessed with one of the world’s highest standards of living and most generous social system, living in Norway is, quite simply, pleasurable. Sure, winter is dark and beer shockingly expensive but all in all, life in Norway’s capital city is pretty sweet.

Meaning “field of the gods” in Norse, Oslo in the summer is definitely fertile ground for verdant parks, world-class museums, chic boutiques and a tall, blonde population that creates a buzzing cafe/bar scene in hip areas like Grünerløkka and Aker Brygge.

The Gabelshus Hotel is a happy reflection of life in Oslo. Both trendy and traditional, it mixes contemporary Nordic design with classic Norwegian hospitality. A guesthouse since 1912 and redesigned in 2005, the Gabelshus is found in an elegant residential area, 15 minutes by foot or tram from Oslo’s centre. Here a guest has the chance to experience a bit of what it is like to be Norwegian.

Ambience
A cross between a boutique hotel and a (prosperous) Norwegian home: not lavish or decadent but stylish, well organized and welcoming. It is a Scandinavian-styled luxury, which exudes an egalitarian sense of well-being while avoiding any Protestant guilt for excess.

Clientel
An international mix of well-heeled travellers who know what they want from a hotel: relaxation rather than a party; stylish comfort without ostentation; a hotel that reflects the city it is in rather than a generic business hotel. And the very smart: Noble prize candidates are among its past guests.

Rooms
Though the graceful ivy-covered exterior suggests something more traditional, much of the Gabelhus’ interiors are chic and minimalist. 10 design rooms and 2 suites are finished in a muted palette with huge windows on to leafy streets, duvet-covered beds, flatscreen TVs with DVD player and, love it or hate it, glassed-walled bathrooms. Some of the other 114 rooms have a more traditional Norwegian style with lots of wood detailing, though many will be up-dated in future renovations. The cool lines of the public areas – lobby, lounges and dining room - are discreetly dotted with art and antiques and comfortable chairs by working fireplaces.

Service
The staff is friendly, helpful and – like most of Norway – free of pretension. Pampering is offered with the ultimate Scandinavian indulgence: the sauna. The hotel’s spa also has a steam bath and solar lamps for a sun boost on dark winter days.

Food and Drink
One of the best parts of a stay at the Gabelshus is the huge breakfast and dinner buffet included in the room rate. Start the day like a Norwegian with strong coffee, dark bread, sild (herring) and mysost, a distinctive local brown whey cheese (though the less Scandinavian inclined can choose from a variety of more familiar breakfast fare). If that wasn’t enough value for money, the dinner buffet is a hearty spread of salads, soup, sausages, cheeses and other tasty things. Anyone who has paid for a meal in Norway – my first was a $30 snack of a beer and French-fries - will appreciate this wallet-relieving bonus.

Things to do
You can do a lot in a day that lasts for 21 hours. Do some window-shopping along the busy pedestrian thoroughfare, Karl Johans Gate, detouring for a peek at the Oslo Town Hall where the Noble Prize is awarded each December. Much of Norway’s Viking past comes to life on the Bygdøy Peninsula where visitors can see a 9th-century Viking longship and a 13th-century stave church at, respectively, the Viking Ship Museum and Norwegian Folk Museum. Even without its infamously stolen “Scream,” the Munch Museum is still the best place to appreciate the renowned painter. Then join the locals for a stroll in Vigeland Park whose beautiful grounds hold 212 sculptures by another local artist, Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943). The Oslo Jazz Festival begins in August, as does the Ibsen Festival, with 100 events planned over 4 weeks to celebrate the Norwegian playwright.

Bottom line
The place to stay to feel like a Norwegian.

Gabelshus
Essentials: Gabelsgate 16, Oslo. Tel.: (+47) 23 27 65 00; cc.gabelshus@choice.no; www.gabelshus.no.

Rates: Singles from Nok1395 ($245); doubles from Nok1595 ($280); though better rates can often be found on-line. Design room and suite rates vary according to season. Summer rates begin at Nok1995 ($355) for a design room and Nok2500 ($445) for a suite.

Top Draw: A welcoming blend of Norwegian comfort and style.

Needs work: Sure, glass walls in the bathroom are trendy but not so practical when there is more than one in the room.