Ngong House, Nairobi

SLEEPOVER: KENYA'S ROLLING HILLS AT YOUR DOORSTEP

DEANNA MACDONALD
Special to The Globe and Mail
June 11, 2008

I had a tree house in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Hills. Well, at least I did for two nights. Sitting on four hectares of land overlooking the eponymous hills, Ngong House is an eccentric mélange of Kenyan design, nature and luxury with five (soon to be six) individual tree houses scattered among acacia and flowering trees. You could almost believe you're in the African bush, even though downtown Nairobi is only 20 minutes away.

Location:
In the leafy residential area of Langata and Karen, Ngong House is just a short drive or guided walk to Nairobi's most popular sights. The secluded property is crisscrossed with paths through long grass that lead to individual tree houses, each designed for privacy and views of the rolling Ngong Hills. ("Ngong," means "knuckle" in Swahili.)

Design:
Traditional African arts and architecture are incorporated with a bit of rustic luxury. The tree houses are high above the ground on wooden stilts, constructed of hand-hewn wood, thatch roofs and lots of windows and a balcony to admire the views. Inside, a living area features handmade Lamu furniture and comfy couches covered in African fabrics. There's also a bathroom with hand-painted sinks, and a small kitchen. Upstairs, a huge canopied bed sits under a steeply pitched roof. And each tree house has its own twist: One has a boat theme with a bathtub and bed made of wooden seagoing canoes.

Ambience:
Relaxed and homey with a dash of old-fashioned gentility. Guests are welcome to hang out in the colonial-era main house or garden. The owner, Paul Verleysen, is often around to suggest outings or just to chat. Drinks of all kinds can be had at any time, and coffee and tea are served with a silver tin of homemade biscuits. Guests are invited to join the owner for a "sundowner" around a campfire, though some opt to pop open a Tusker (popular local beer) from the free mini-bar in the tree house and watch the sunset from their own balcony.

Clientele:
Guests often stop in on their way to or from a safari, as Ngong House is just a 10-minute drive from Wilson airport, where most safari flights depart. Couples and honeymooners frequent the rustic, secluded property, as do employees from international organizations and embassies, who often know the best places to stay.

Service:
Staff are attentive and friendly. There is always someone around to carry your bags, offer you a drink or guide you to the giraffe sanctuary, a 10-minute walk away. Drivers and vehicles, including a classic Land Rover, are available for outings to sites, restaurants or the airport. There is Wi-Fi in the main house and a computer for guest use.

Food and drink:
Prepared by a Kenyan chef with the best of local ingredients, meals can be taken in the garden or terrace of the main house or in your tree house. Breakfast begins with a huge plate of fresh fruit, homemade granola, whole-meal bread and your choice of eggs and sausages. You'll be asked if you'd like a light lunch or something more substantial, but choose the light as dinner is a multicourse affair and portions are generous (and delicious). A sample evening menu begins with warm goat cheese salad, then sautéed prawns, Nile perch and local vegetables, finishing with poached pears and ice cream.

Things to Do:
The surrounding neighbourhoods of Karen and Langata hold some of Nairobi's best sights. To see where this whole Out of Africa thing started, visit the Karen Blixen Museum (http://www.museums.or.ke/content/blogcategory/13/19), where the Danish author lived from 1914 to 1931. Pick up some stylish souvenirs at the nearby Kazuri Beads (http://www.kazuri.com). You can pet a baby elephant at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org), open daily from 11 a.m. to noon for visits with the rescued animals. Get up close with a giraffe at the Giraffe Center (http://www.giraffecenter.org), where the animals will eat from your hand and give you a kiss (apparently their saliva is antibacterial). Try a suburban safari in
Nairobi National Park (www.kws.org/nairobi.html), where rhinos, leopards, lions, warthogs, zebras and more roam free within sight of downtown skyscrapers. Or take a Nairobi Safari Walk (www.kws.org/nsw.html), with wooden walkways
above spacious enclosures containing similarly awe-
inspiring animals.

Hotel vitals:
TOP DRAW
As close as you'll get to "I had a tree house in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Hills."
NEEDS WORK
They don't take credit cards. Make sure to have a pocketful of cash or arrange for a bank transfer.

NGONG HOUSE:
Nairobi, Kenya; 254 0 20 891 856; http://www.ngonghouse.com.
ROOM AND RATES: $400 a person, including transfers, excursions and all meals. $360 with half-board. Ngong House accommodates up to 24 people. Five bungalows/tree houses available; sixth opening this month.