To the Swiss Alps

WHERE TO TAKE YOUR EYE OFF THE BALL AT EURO 2008

'Even more spectacular than football'? Some fans might dispute Switzerland's latest tourism slogan. Then again, with 60,000 hiking trails, even footie fanatics may be tempted to put it to the test. Deanna MacDonald rounds up top peaks near Euro 2008 host cities

DEANNA MACDONALD
Special to The Globe and Mail
May 28, 2008

ZURICH
This city may be known for staidly suited bankers (nicknamed gnomes) and one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world. But visitors would be hard pressed to find a resident without a pair of hiking boots in the closet. And there are a number of places to put them to use both within city limits and nearby.

THE UETLIBERG (871 METRES)
It's just a 20-minute train ride to the top of Zurichers' favourite hiking escape - which offers sweeping views of the city and the Alpine Range. Spend hours on trails along the mountain ridge, then hop a funicular at Felsenegg to get back to the city centre.
http://www.zuerich.com

MOUNT SÄNTIS (2,502 METRES)
A cable car goes to the summit here, or follow one of many hiking trails. Either way, keep going to the top. The views - taking in the Vorarlberg Mountains, the Bernese Alps and Lakes Constance and Zurich - are jaw-dropping. En route, stop in the village of Appenzell and pick up some of its famous cheese for a picnic in the peaks.
http://www.saentisbahn.ch

LE RIGI (1,797 METRES)
Surrounded by an alpine lake, Le Rigi is known as "island mountain" and has been celebrated since Mark Twain's day for its spectacular sunrises (even though Twain himself famously overslept). An easy day trip from Zurich or Bern, the region offers abundant hiking trails as well as shortcuts up the mountain, including a cable car that stops - or at least slows down - at various points. Try the two-hour walk from Rigi-Kaltbad to Hinterbergen, a path that winds through sheer cliffs.
http://www.the-best-of-lake-lucerne.ch

BASEL
This city may not be located in the most vertiginous part of Switzerland, but there are pleasant walks in the gentle Baselbiet hills and in the Oberbaselbiet region. Or if you're an Alpine-peak-or-nothing type, head to Mount Pilatus.

MOUNT PILATUS (2,132 METRES)
If this well-known Swiss proverb is to be believed, coaches should watch this mountain's craggy peak: "When Pilatus hides his head/ Sunshine below will spread/ When Pilatus' head is bare/ Of rain beware."
Legend also says dragons inhabit this awesome mountain. But with more than 900 plant species and panoramas taking in more than 73 summits, hikers come here for more than mythical monsters and weather predictions. Catch a train to Lucerne, then a lake steamer to Alpnachstad. From there, the brave can begin the very long hike up. Or those saving strength to cheer on their favourite team can take the steepest rack railway in the world (at a 48-per-cent gradient) to the fabled summit.
http://www.pilatus.ch

BERN
Thanks to characteristic Swiss organization, there will soon be giant TV screens among the Gothic spires and government buildings here. For action off the soccer pitch, the city also has plenty of signs that lead visitors to walking trails in the countryside. One of the newest: The Wege zu Klee, a path from the city to the Paul Klee Centre (http://www.paulkleezentrum.ch) designed by Renzo Piano in rolling green hills just outside Bern.

THE GURTEN (858 METRES)
Dramatically wrapped around a bend in the Aare River, Bern is a green city where paths lead to gardens, parks and up the Gurten - a high point of the city that offers walking trails and panoramic vistas.
http://www.berninfo.com

THE JUNGFRAUJOCH
(4,158 METRES)
A short train ride from Bern are some of the country's most majestic peaks - the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau - sometimes referred to as the "Top of Europe." Hop on the highest rack railway on the continent to get to the Jungfraujoch. But bring warm clothes and good boots if you plan to wander around the rocky moonscape of the high Alps. Even in early summer, you can see your breath. Another tip: Don't be surprised if you hear Indian music instead of yodelling - Bollywood films are regularly shot here.
http://www.jungfraubahn.ch

MOUNT TITLIS (3,239 METRES)
Not only does this peak offer the standard mind-boggling views, its summit boasts an ice grotto, a glacier and the Trübsee - considered one of Europe's most beautiful mountain lakes. Hike or mountain-bike on a myriad of trails, or for a more gastronomic experience take part in a monthly candlelit, all-you-can-eat fondue dinner under a full moon.
http://www.titlis.ch

GENEVA
Filled with bureaucrats and international organizations, Geneva has a reputation for being, well, dull. But as anyone who has visited this multicultural city on the banks of the Rhone well knows, this theory has as many holes as a piece of Swiss cheese. And, for walkers, it's a great jumping-off point for excursions to peaks, glaciers and even vineyards.

MOUNT SALÈVE (670 METRES)
This is the city's very own mountain. Bring a picnic and join locals admiring stunning views over the city, Lake
Geneva, the Savoy Alps and the Jura Mountains.
http://www.geneve-tourisme.ch

ROCHERS-DE-NAYE
(2,045 METRES)
Start your hike here with a short cog train ride to Glion. From there, the trail climbs more than 1,000 metres. Your reward: On your way back to Geneva, hop off the train at Lausanne and take a stroll in the Lavaux Vineyards - a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, they climb the steep slopes along Lake Geneva and offer both lovely vistas and tasting opportunities.
http://www.lake-geneva-tourism.ch

LES DIABLERETS
(3,209 METRES)
Want to watch a soccer match from a glacier? Then head to Les Diablerets, a remarkably short distance from the summery shores of Lake Geneva, where large screens will broadcast all Swiss games live. Be warned though: You may be distracted by the astonishing cirque created by the curve of the mountains and drawn to the many hiking paths that crisscross the landscape. After walking up an appetite, visit the glacier-side restaurant designed by star Swiss architect Mario Botta.
http://www.glacier3000.ch

*****
Pack your bags

GETTING AROUND
Match tickets come with 36 hours of free public transportation. There are half-price EURO 2008 travel cards on sale. Or buy a multiday Swiss Pass at http://www.swisstravelsystem.ch. It allows for travel on almost all forms of transportation and includes free access to many attractions.
HIKING
Swiss Tourism has a list of hiking trails in the country and links to hiking associations at http://www.mySwitzerland.com.
EURO 2008
Pedestrian-only "Fan Zones" in the country's four host cities will broadcast games starting June 7. Or check out the schedule for matches at euro2008.uefa.com.